In my Magic Mirror it is the screen that supports the frame, not the other way around.
In my build, I've reversed this situation - making my Mirror much lighter, cheaper and easier. Invariably they have a wooden bar across the back to hold the screen in place. Most builds seem to use a heavy wooden frame to support the substantial weight of the screen. In constructing my Mirror I did something I haven't seen elsewhere. Unfortunately these brands may not be available outside North America. Mirroview - this one seems to be designed specifically for computer screen scenarios.That said, from my research I came to the conclusion that two mirrors from Pilkington are probably the best available: I scoured the internet looking for the definition of the "best ratio of reflectivity/transparency." Most sources say 70% reflective, 30% transparent is ideal. Acrylic is good because it's very light, but from experience, I think it's better for smaller mirrors only. Personally, I used 3mm acrylic and although it looks great, I'd prefer to replace it with glass that eliminates distortion. See here for discussions about acquiring in different places. It can be difficult to get in many countries. The glass/acrylic for the mirror is about the hardest component to get right. Drill (for attaching VESA mount to wall).You'll probably want it flush to keep the screen as close as possible to the wall. Screen wall mount - usually called a "VESA" mount and you'll need one for your specific screen.Extension power cable - you'll probably cut the power cable from your screen and splice it to another cable.It's ideal because you can find it anywhere, it's strong and it doesn't stretch. Strapping band - I found the single meter I needed wrapped around a box of printer paper.IKEA's RIBBA frame (No.: 200.780.50.) I specifically suggest this frame because of a certain characteristic that simplifies construction of the mirror.You'll also need a video cable (and probably a converter to HDMI) and power cable. Screen - suggest an old computer screen - ideally 15-17 inch.Transparent reflective mirror - see below for a more detailed account.Good power supply - at least 2.5 amps.You can use earlier models (and the Zero) but it's more complicated to set up. I used V2 - which meant I needed a WiFi dongle.
I used 3mm but anything thicker may require some strengthening of the frame. If you're looking for instructions about setting up the Raspberry Pi itself, click the Magic Mirror link above.īefore you run out and buy your IKEA frame, please be aware that the one I'm about to describe is good for relatively thin glass. I'd like to concentrate on a single aspect easily constructing your Magic Mirror from a Raspberry Pi and an inexpensive 50x50cm IKEA frame. Look here or here for tons of examples and instructions.
#MAGIC MIRROR DIY WITH RASPBERRY PI HOW TO#
There are any number of tutorials on the web explaining how to make them. I'm assuming most readers of this blog already know what a Magic Mirror is. Menu Easily build a Magic Mirror with a Raspberry Pi and standard 50x50 cm IKEA frame on raspberry pi, magic-mirror, PIR, magic mirror, magicmirror, IKEA, IKEA frame, RIBBA frame
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